Myrarkvisl River – 05/21/2023

Time: 8:30AM – 11:00AM

Location: Pools 30 – 38.5

Myrarkvisl River 05/21/2023 Photo Album

Typical Water

Great Result

Gilbert and I once again drove the two-rutted lane from the lodge upstream. I fished the same six weight overlined with an eight weight line. The black ghost remained on my line throughout the session, and I cast to the far bank and swung and stripped the streamer through outstanding pools. Over the course of the morning session I landed seven amazing brown trout. They were all fat seventeen and eighteen inch fish. By far this was my best session of the trip. One fish created a wake, as it charged the fly, while it raced from the bank in pursuit of my imitation. In addition, I experienced three or four hits that did not convert into landed fish.

Very Nice Icelandic Brown Trout

Another Big Brown

These browns were powerful fish that dove and held and deployed head shakes in their effort to reach freedom. The colors and spots were superb on the wild and truly native trout of Iceland.

Fish Landed: 7

Jubilation

Langavantn Lake – 05/20/2023

Time: 7:30PM – 8:00PM

Location: Mostly the inlet area

I spent thirty minutes waded into the lake at the end near the inlet, as I was casting and stripping the black ghost with the cased caddis larva as a trailer. I was not successful, and I became quite chilled standing in the waist deep water.

Fish Landed: 0

Laxa River – 05/20/2023

Time: 4:30PM – 7:15PM

Location: Haga Beat

Laxa River 05/20/2023 Photo Album

I began my evening on the Laxa River by swinging and stripping the eight weight with a guides choice hares ear wet fly and a cased caddis larva that Gilbert created. The Laxa is a wide, meandering river in the location, where we fished, and owner Matti along with guest Pamela were present in the same beat. Gilbert instructed me, as we worked our way down a long run with no success. The wind was a constant force. Toward the end of the run, where the river deflected off a bank, Gilbert snapped off the eight weight demonstrating a cast against the wind. It was an example of two very strong forces colliding. We returned to the truck and switched to the six weight and overlined it with the eight weight line to counter the wind.

The Meandering and Wide Laxa River

Upon our return to the river I landed five small brown trout in the eleven to twelve inch range, but they were nonetheless very feisty fighters. Once we covered the area, we moved to a spot below the bridge, and once again covered a long shelf pool by swinging and stripping. No luck was forthcoming, so we departed for another location.

Fish Landed: 5

Best of the Evening Session

Myrarkvisl River – 05/20/2023

Time: 9:00AM – 11:00AM

Location: Beat 2, Pools 31 – 26

Myrarkvisl River 05/20/2023 Photo Album

Guide’s Patch

When I woke up on Saturday morning at the lodge, the wind was once again howling. I wore the same layers as Friday evening. Gilbert maneuvered his 4 Runner over a rough two track, and we began fishing above the wooden bridge in a pool bordered by a high vertical rock wall along the opposite bank. I worked this pool with the eight weight and the black ghost with no success, and then Gilbert switched to a small pink marabou streamer. This move was unappreciated by the fish, so we moved downstream to a horseshoe-shaped bend. I told Gilbert I was concerned about the strain on my elbow due to backhand casting in the wind, so he assembled a six weight and converted to a strike indicator nymphing setup with a locking Thingamabobber, split shot and squirmy wormy. The gel type fly did not produce, so he swapped it for a bright pink San Juan worm, and that did the trick.

Below This Bend Was a Prime Spot

On the first cast into some nervous, riffled water, a robust fifteen inch brown trout chowed on the worm. Gilbert told me the tippet was 2X, so I horsed the fish a bit more than I should have, but it worked out, and I gazed at a very colorful Icelandic brown trout. In another area with many conflicting currents, I landed a second brown of approximately thirteen inches on the San Juan worm. We tried a few more attractive pools between 10:15 and 11:00, but the constantly gusting wind was taxing my arm and casting, so we called it quits by 11:00AM. Based on my two stints on the river, I can foresee the fun that could be in my future should the wind abate.

Fish Landed: 2

Myrarkvisl River – 05/19/2023

Time: 5:00PM – 7:30PM

Location: Pools 51, 50, and 46.5

Myrarkvisl River 05/19/2023 Photo Album

After getting acclimated at the lodge I met my guide, Gilbert, and I found waders and wading boots with a perfect fit for my small stature. I was concerned about this issue, but the waders and boots actually fit better than my own. As we prepared to depart for an evening of fishing, the wind howled, and I was skeptical that we would even fish. I wore my long sleeve Columbia undershirt, a fishing shirt, my melanzana fleece hoodie, my light down North Face parka, and a rain shell; and I was comfortable for my 2.5 hours on the water.

Gilbert is a guide from Sweden in his fifth year of guiding with Iceland Fishing Guides, and we piled into his “new” used Toyota Four Runner with 210,000 miles. During the course of the 2.5 hours we passed through three crude farm gates, and we moved from pool to pool. I think we covered four such sections on the river.

Reminded Me of the North Platte

The fishing approach did not vary, only the casting. I was offered an eight weight rod with a weight forward head, and the working end contained a black ghost size 6. Gilbert ties his own flies, and the black ghost was one of his own. I spent my time shooting casts across or at a forty-five degree angle, and then stripping the streamer back in a big arc across the current. The pools were generally  deep slower moving troughs, but I also applied this technique to a couple nice deep entering riffles at the top of the pools.

Holding the Prize

In the second pool, as I paused the retrieve at the end of the swing, I felt a forceful bump, and reacted with a swift hookset. The fight was on, and after a spirited battle I edged a gorgeous silvery and spotted brown trout into Gilbert’s net. Needless to say, I was thrilled with this start to my Iceland adventure. Prior to the first catch, I also experienced a very brief bump, and Gilbert said it was a short strike. A short swirl was another predecessor to my landed trout.

Number Two

After a second pool we dropped into an area with steeper banks, and Gilbert had me switch to roll casting because of the high wind. Eventually the cross wind became so ridiculous, that I was executing (poorly) a form of spey casting with a downstream roll cast, and then an upstream flip and then a roll. In the third pool, which I assessed as the best, there was a nice deep boil above a series of stream improvement rocks. I made several swings through the pool, and we spotted a single swirl five feet above the rocks. Gilbert helped me swing the streamer through the area of the swirl with verbal direction, and a strong smash ensued. Wham! I stripped and connected with a fat seventeen inch brown. The fight followed, and I succeeded in landing the beast.

Sheep Jam

By the fourth pool the wind accelerated to dangerous levels, and Gilbert suggested that we call it a day, so we headed back to the lodge for dinner. Friday was a great introduction to my Iceland fishing adventure.

Fish Landed: 2

Iceland Day 4 – 05/17/2023

Iceland Day 4 05/17/2023 Photo Album

Rainbow Road

After spending the night in Egilstaor; Amy, Jane and I drove to Seyoisfjordur. We crested a ridge and rounded a curve, and the small town spread out before us with an out of place cruise ship/ferry anchored in the small harbor. Apparently the small artsy town on the northest coast is the end point for European travelers crossing the North Atlantic. We strolled about the small village, and this included viewing the rainbow path, the small blue church and hiking to a narrow waterfalls. Across from the falls was a small circular dock area with a number of picturesque fishing trawlers.

Looking Well Maintained

From Seyoisfjordur we reversed direction back to Egilstaor and then continued to the basalt canyon named Stuolagil, but Apple maps led us to a two-rut lane that was barely more than a cow path. After .5 mile we decided this drive was not feasible, so we turned around and discovered road signs to Stuolagil. The sign offered an option that involved a 10K hike into the canyon, but time did not allow this choice, so we drove to Gund with an amazing metal staircase that led to an overlook platform. Amy and Jane counted steps in excess of two hundred.

Loved These Curled Versions

Krafla Geothermal Area

The next couple of hours took us to a stop call Krafla in the Lake Myvatn area, where we completed a brief stroll among fumaroles, mud pots, and hot water pools. It was Yellowstonesque with the eerie steaming landscape. From Krafla we headed to our final destination at Myrarkvisl Lodge. Google maps took us within one mile, but we missed the turnoff, and I called Matti, who walked us through directions to the lodge between broken signals and wind noise.

On Friday night we shared the lodge with Pamela and Brian, and the guides joined us along with Chef Gunsi for a superb pork chop dinner with sweet potatoes, sweet corn and aioli salad over bread. Dessert was a superb vanilla flavored skyr with cinnamon biscuit topping.

Iceland Day 3 – 05/18/2023

Iceland Day 3 05/18/2023 Photo Album

Thursday began with another incredible continental breakfast deluxe. Skyr, pastries, and an assortment of fresh fruit were favorites on my plate. Once again we filled up with fuel and snacks, and we were off to the Hoffellsjokul Glacier. Our itinerary mentioned that the road from the highway to the glacier was a bit rough, and this prompted us to rent a 4X4 (Mitsubishi Outlander). While cautiously traveling the secondary road that led to the rough two-track, Jane spotted an arctic fox 75 yards away. It paused to look at us, and I snapped a pair of photos using my maximum telephoto (which is not that great). before it pranced off. The arctic fox is clearly identifiable in the photo, although rather small. Later, at the fishing lodge, the locals told us that we were lucky, as Arctic fox sightings are rare.

A Rare Arctic Fox Spotted

Huddled

Amy was in the driver’s seat, and the gravel road was indeed a bit rough, but we have driven worse in Colorado. The worst part was a small stream crossing at the outset, but Amy literally rocked it. The short hike over a steep hill revealed a panoramic view of a huge glacier lagoon littered with massive ice blocks. The initial view was another wow moment of our trip. We actually encountered another couple, as we returned on the trail. Near the start of the return drive, we temporarily veered off the main road, but a deep gully prevented us from straying too far, and we managed to correct and rejoined the main two-track. When we reached the stream crossing, a reindeer was staring at us from the opposite bank. I jumped out of the car to make a video of the creek crossing, and the reindeer ambled away unconcerned. Amy selected a different line on this crossing and once again mastered it.

Boneyard

From Hoffellsjokull we reversed direction and passed through Hofn and continued a short distance to Vestrahorn. Amy and Jane enjoyed Viking waffles at the lodge, and I downed a ham panini. Afterward we paid our 3000 IKR and drove the short road to a parking lot and completed a one mile round trip hike to the Viking village and farm. The site was pretty lame except for some thatched roof buildings and a Viking ship replica.

Churning Surf

Our next stop was a second parking lot near the shoreline. We were seeking a black beach with grassy tussocks, but instead we got drenched in a soaking rain before reaching a lighthouse and decommissioned NATO radar station. The wind was blowing the rain sideways, and the severe test of my old tan Columbia raincoat taught me that it was not a viable outer layer for fishing.

A Falls on the Way to Egilstaoir

The next segment of our drive was a two hour journey along the fjord country of eastern Iceland. Route 1 hugged the shoreline and provided classic views of the Icelandic coast. When we reached the western edge of the deepest fjord, we veered on to a gravel road that climbed in a steep ascent through dense fog. This bit of dicey driving was unexpected, but as usual Amy mastered it. From the high point on the pass we descended along a high gradient stream and eventually arrived in Egilstaoir and found our hotel, Lake Hotel Egilsstaoir. We debated going to the Vok floating baths, but decided to forego this option for dinner at the Salt Bistro followed by wine in the lobby of the hotel. Dinner consisted of two vegan pizzas and a maugherita pizza, and we created a large quantity of leftovers.

Iceland Day 2 – 05/17/2023

Iceland Day 2 05/17/2023 Photo Album

A night with one hour of sleep caught up with us, and we slept twelve hours in our comfortable room at the Kria Inn. Jane woke up Amy and I at 8:00AM, as she thought the Kria Inn breakfast ended at 9:00AM, but we made it with plenty of time to spare. The breakfast buffet was amazing with Icelandic bread, smooth yogurt, and delicious pastries.

Rocks and Surf

Black Pebbles on the Beach

After breakfast we crossed the street to the discount store, where we bought an assortment of snacks. I actually found pretzel sticks to feed my addiction, but they were called Saltletts. We also purchased a second electrical adaptor and gasoline and then headed east a short distance to Reynisfjarabeach. From there we could also see the famous rock formation, Dyrholaey. The beach was black sand and shiny black pebbles, and the rock façade consisted of vertical and diagonal basalt rock sections separated by cracks and fissures. After a short out and back hike along the beach, we returned to the rental car, but that was not before once again running into the trio of men who sat behind us on the plane.

We Hiked to the Bridge

We jumped back on the coastal highway and drove for two hours to the Svartifoss Falls. Here we hiked for thirty minutes to the base of the falls, before we turned around and ambled back to the car. The hike was relatively short but steep, and the falls were nice but not as impressive as Seljalandfoss.

Tons of Ice

I Was Enthralled with This Iceberg

Once again we hit the road and reached Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon in plenty of time to meet our scheduled boat trip. What a place! Huge icebergs cluttered the outlet from the glacier, as the lagoon eddied in a big circle. The amphibious craft took us into the more open water behind the iceberg bottleneck. While we waited for our time to board, we spotted three seals (or were they sea lions?) frolicking in the icy lagoon (Brrr!). After the boat ride we checked out Diamond Beach, but it was devoid of the anticipated ice crystals.

Suited Up for the Glacier Game

After Diamond Beach we pressed on to the coastal town of Hofn (pronounced Hop), and along the way we spotted nine grazing reindeer. When we entered the small town, we headed directly to the Kaffi Hornid, but while waiting in line to be seated, a man appeared to announce that the restaurant was having technical difficulties, and we could return later. Our stomachs grumbled, so we found our second choice, Z Bistro, where we enjoyed fish and chips and a lobster sandwich. While in the parking lot at Kaffi Hornid, Amy was accosted by an extremely furry cat, and she was naturally compelled to pet it. We agreed that the heavy coat was appropriate for the weather of Iceland.

Iceland Day 1 – 05/16/2023

Iceland Day 1 05/16/2023 Photo Albums

As an avid fly fisherman for the last forty years, I devoured a lot of literature about destinations, and Iceland has always been an intriguing place for me. Fast forward to the Fly Fishing Show in Denver in early February, and I attended a presentation by Matti of Iceland Fishing Guides. Matti’s talk excited me tremendously, and I decided at that moment that I wanted to visit Iceland in 2023. When I returned home, I announced my decision to Jane, and she expressed an interest in accompanying me, although she does not fly fish. I sent a text message to Matti, and Jane and I met him for coffee at the Gaylord Resort on Saturday to ask additional questions about activities for Jane for the four days that I planned to fly fish. Ultimately Jane and I decided to invite our daughter, Amy, to join us; and Amy readily agreed. This provided Jane with a compatible traveling companion for the entire trip, but most importantly for the four days that I was committed to fish with Iceland Fishing Guides.

Once we settled on the three person traveling party, Matti’s team put together an itinerary, and after a few tweaks, the trip plan was finalized. We were scheduled to fly to Reykjavik, rent a car and drive the southern and eastern ring, while sightseeing along the way, before arrival at the Myrarkvisl lodge for fly fishing.

On Monday, May 15, 2023 the plan became a reality; as Jane, Amy and I arrived at Denver International Airport. We hopped on our Jet Blue flight in Denver and landed at Logan International Airport in Boston on time and without a hitch. We endured a four hour layover in Boston before boarding the Icelandic Air flight at 6:30PM for Reykjavik. Dinner consisted of Asian fast food in the international terminal. Amy, Jane and I occupied the three middle seats on our transatlantic four hour flight. I attempted to sleep in an awkward upright position and possibly logged an hour of rest.

Upon our arrival at Keflavik Airport, we passed through customs without a glitch. My decision to rely on Iceland Fishing Guide equipment and flies helped expedite the customs process. There was a problem with the baggage carousel, so we waited an inordinate amount of time in our grumpy, hungry state.

Waiting for Breakfast Upon Arrival

Finally the bags arrived, and we proceeded to the Europcar counter, where we obtained our Mitsubishi Outlander (Mitsy) for our time in Iceland. I took my phone off airport mode and absorbed the $10 daily pass charge for international usage, so we could navigate from the airport to downtown Reykjavik. Using the Lonely Planet guidebook we selected the Kaffivagnimm Restaurant in the Old Harbor area for our breakfast destination, and Amy completed the 45 minute drive.

A Euro summit was in progress in the downtown area, but the restaurant was outside the security zone, so we had no trouble finding a parking space. The restaurant did not open for food until 8AM, but we entered and found a table and sipped coffees and tea for twenty minutes. The counter man took our orders of breakfast plates, and shortly after eight o’clock our meals arrived. The other patrons of the “oldest restaurant in Reykjavik” were crusty, old retired men (like me). Also, ironically while we ate our breakfasts, the three gentlemen who were seated behind us on the flight from Boston, arrived. What were the chances?

Downtown Reykjavik

After breakfast we returned to the Outlander and drove to a parking lot near the center of the city. Our parking was constrained somewhat by the barricaded streets caused by the summit conference. The signs in the parking lot were in Icelandic, so we also had reservations about the meaning, but Amy and Jane worked out payments, and we were never ticketed. We spent the next hour strolling the quaint streets of Reykjavik. The capital has a very small town feel with very neat and brightly colored buildings and a very Scandinavian look.

Seljalandfoss 2

The Iceland Wellers

After roaming the downtown area, we returned to the car and drove to Seljalandfoss waterfalls. This trip took us along the southern coast littered with small farms, sheep, and Icelandic horses. The waterfalls was amazing, and there were a series of smaller falls farther north on the trail. Jane, Amy and I hiked behind the falls, and in the process absorbed a bit of water, but the dampness was justified by the unique experience. Once again we encountered the three seat mates from our flight, as they were likewise visiting the waterfalls.

Spring Flowers in the Creek Below the Falls

Our next and final stop on Tuesday was the Hotel Kria. We checked in early and took two hour naps, before heading to The Soup Company in Vik for a splendid meal of homemade bread, Icelandic lamb soup, and topped off with a shared slice of caramel apple pie.

South Platte River – 05/10/2023

Time: 11:30AM – 4:00PM

Location: Eleven Mile Canyon

South Platte River 05/10/2023 Photo Album

When I first considered a day of fishing on Wednesday, May 10, 2023, the weather forecast was very encouraging. The high temperature at Lake George was anticipated to be in the upper sixties with partly cloudy skies and wind speeds in the ten to eleven mile range. The hour by hour forecast predicted a thirty to forty percent probability of rain after 3PM. In retrospect after experiencing the day, the weather was very adverse. Heavy clouds were present all day with only thirty minutes, at most, of sunshine. In the early afternoon my fishing companion, Nate, and I heard rumbling in the western sky, so we found a large rock overhang and huddled there, until the lightning and thunder abated. After resuming our fishing, another storm cell rolled in, and in this case we absorbed heavy rain showers and small hail pellets. The remainder of the afternoon reflected the forecast with periods of rain, wind and overcast for the last 1.5 hours. Fortunately I packed a fleece hoodie and my New Zealand billed hat with earflaps, or our quitting time may have been munch sooner than 4PM.

Once again my young fishing partner, Nate, accompanied me on this adventure. Nate is an experienced spin and bait fisherman, but a relatively novice fly angler, and I really wanted to introduce him to a productive piece of water, that would position him to set new standards for quantity of fish landed. The good news is that he accomplished that goal. The bad news is that he suffered through the same adverse weather conditions that tested me throughout the day.

I chose the South Platte River at Eleven Mile Canyon because the flows were in the 77 CFS range, and the major freestones in Colorado were already demonstrating the impact of seasonal run off with high and murky conditions. In addition, I visited the South Platte quite a few times in 2023 in the area, and I had yet to be disappointed. Nate and I met at a convenient park and ride, and we continued our trip to the river, so that we were positioned to begin fishing by 11:30AM. The river displayed a slight tinge, but the flows were as advertised in the upper 70 to low 80 range. I chose to fish the left bank, and Nate moved along the right shoreline, which was closest to the fisherman path.

Intense

In the early going I featured a yellow fat Albert, beadhead hares ear nymph and salvation nymph, and before we broke for lunch, I managed to net three brown trout in the eight to ten inch range. All three munched on the hares ear. Nate, meanwhile, offered a foam hopper, and then knotted an emerald caddis pupa below followed by a chartreuse copper john. Eventually the copper john was swapped for a beadhead hares ear.

Early Going

Sure Bet

After lunch, Nate began to register trout at a regular pace. I noticed a series of rises, and not wanting to consume the time necessary to make a full conversion to a dry fly, I exchanged the salvation nymph for a RS2. The RS2 produced a fish or two, but the rises stopped, and that signaled an end to the subsurface action as well. I knew from surveying the quality of the water, that I was skipping fish, so I reconfigured with a prince nymph on top and the hares ear on the bottom. This move paid strong dividends, as the fish count began to climb at a steady pace. There was a streak when the prince was on fire, but eventually the hares ear resumed its status as the top producer.

Big Smile

On Display

Protected from the Elements

During this time period the first thunderstorm forced us to seek shelter under a small rock ledge overhead. When we returned, I made an excessive hook set with no resistance and hurled my flies into an evergreen branch behind me. I had swapped the fat Albert for a tan pool toy hopper, and I could see the hopper relatively close to the trailing nymphs. I acknowledged that retrieval was unlikely, so I applied direct pressure and snapped off the three flies. I was not a happy camper. I replaced the prince and hares ear with like flies, but for the surface fly I returned to a fat Albert.

Cast Over White Water?

For the remainder of the afternoon Nate and I worked our way up the river along opposite banks, and we raised our fish counters significantly. Nate tallied eleven landed trout, before we adjourned at 4PM, and I elevated my count to twenty-six. Most of Nate’s success came from the hares ear, but he also notched two feeders on the emerald caddis pupa and one eager trout that gobbled the hopper pattern. In my case I estimate that sixty percent of my catch was attributable to the hares ear and forty percent to the prince. I believe that the larger prince helped sink my flies, and this aided in my strong afternoon showing. Nate achieved double digits on flies for the first time, and he also netted the fish of the day, a fine wild fourteen inch brown trout.

Long and Lean

Most of my fish were in the eight to eleven inch range with a pair of twelve inchers topping the measuring tape. There was one period during the second thunderstorm, when both of us were pelted by heavy rain and then slanted ice pellets, but this lasted for ten minutes and then moved on. My top locations were deep runs along fast moving current and long and deep pockets. The trout seemed to favor positions at the tail of the soft water, where currents merged and concentrated food. Slow moving pools were not productive, although the sections that we fished did not offer much in the way of deep slow moving water. The size of my fish was somewhat understated, but I had a blast moving quickly and prospecting upstream and landing trout at a steady pace. Nate, of course, was euphoric after his record day, and he was the proud owner of the largest fish landed.

Fish Landed: 26