New Zealand Day 5 01/22/2018 Photo Album

The Upwelling Spring

Monday January 22 was a sightseeing day in New Zealand. Brenda recovered enough from her illness to join John, Jane and I for a trip to the Farewell Spit on the northern tip of the South Island. Our two hour drive from Motueka included a twisting, climbing section through some forested mountains. We stopped at Waikoropupu Springs and completed a short hike that circled two huge upwellings from a deep aquifer. The volume of water that rushed to the surface in two large pools created an instant river. The Pupa Springs pool is sacred to the Maori people, and visitors may not touch the water. We followed the outflow on our return hike through a dense rainforest that contained huge ferns and thick stands of moss covered trees. The entire circuit took place amidst steady rain and intermittent fog and mist.

A Very Wet Environment

We were pleased to reach the shelter of the minivan, and we proceeded north until we reached a turn that delivered us to a carpark next to a cafe and a small visitor center. We reviewed a large map on the wall and selected a loop route to explore the Farewell Spit, but the absence of detail prevented us from identifying a starting point that we were confident in. A returning hiker in the parking lot suggested that we move to another carpark closer to the start, so we accepted his advice and relocated downhill from the cafe. The steady rain that followed us for two hours from Motueka subsided, and the skies cleared, so we paused to apply sunscreen and insect repellent before we hit the trail or track, if one prefers the local dialect.

Jane Is All Smiles

We began hiking east on the Inner Ocean Track as it followed the shoreline of Golden Bay on the southern side of the spit. During this segment of our trek we spotted an abundance of waterfowl and raced a ray, as it flapped its wide wing-like fins and propelled itself parallel to the shoreline. After traveling east a good distance we cut across the narrow land mass on the appropriately named Spit Trail to the ocean beach side. We followed the Ocean Beach Track west toward Fossil Point, and then completed the loop through a Farmpark to the parking lot.

Near the Ocean Side of Our Tramp

The trail was muddy at spots as a result of the recent rain, but we managed to avoid wet feet. The beach segment was beautiful, and Jane could not resist the temptation to wade knee deep. We paused on some driftwood logs and munched our lunches before continuing to the turn off before Fossil Point. Once the sun broke through the clouds, it became very hot and humid, and these conditions prevailed, while we tramped over the grassy meadow, that was cropped short by the grazing sheep.

Strange Juxtaposition of Pasture and Beach

For our next stop we traveled west to Wharariki Beach. The travel guide suggested taking a horseback ride along the beach, but our time was running short, so Jane and I elected to complete a thirty minute roundtrip hike instead. John and Brenda decided to remain in the car and rest, since they were both recovering from illnesses.

When we stepped out of the minivan, we were stunned to see a huge bird lying on the ground in front of the right front tire. The bird carried a tuft of feathers on its narrow head, and Brenda quickly identified it as a female peacock. Sure enough upon closer examination a small chick appeared from beneath the adult’s feathers. Jane and I circled to the rear of the minivan and opened the hatch, and the peahen and chick followed us. I was about to reach in the back to grab my backpack, when the female suddenly lurched forward and snatched an insect from below the taillight. Jane instantly grew concerned that the aggressive hen would try to jump in the car, so I slammed the hatch shut and we shooed the crazy fowl and her baby away. This was a wildlife encounter not outlined in the guidebook!

A Mother Peacock and Baby by Our Minivan

The fifteen minute walk to the beach traversed pastures, bush and rolling sand dunes before we reached a wide strip of sand. The white beach was spectacular with several large rocks protruding from the surf. They were fifty yards beyond the edge of the dry sand, and they blocked the surging waves. Off to the right four or five individuals were body surfing and using belly boards in large angled waves. Jane and I ambled southeast until we encountered a pair of seals relaxing on the beach next to a rock wall. They seemed rather content in their sand and surf paradise.

Surfers of Every Sort

As Close As I Could Get

We found the trail that brought us to Wharariki Beach and returned to the car park, and then our foursome returned to Motueka. Our route took us past the Mussel Inn near Collingswood, and based on the recommendation of our trip advisor, Dave Glasscock, we made a stop. We all ordered craft beers and Proper Crisps, and then we relaxed in the shade of an outdoor covered patio.

The Mussel Inn for Brews and Proper Crisps

After a long day of sightseeing we returned to  Motueka by 7:30. A quick shower refreshed us, and then we strolled a couple blocks north to the Sprig & Fern Taphouse for dinner. Jane and I both enjoyed fish salads with grilled whitefish fillets over fresh greens and vegetables. A healthy meal was a fitting end to our active day on Farewell Spit.