National Parks Tour Day 7 Crater Lake 2 08/20/2015

We had one more full day to explore Crater Lake National Park on Thursday, August 20, and Joe and Amy chose to bike Rim Drive. Rim Drive circles the entire crater, and a complete loop is thirty-three miles. The distance is not extraordinarily imposing, but the topography is quite challenging. Our drive from the Cleetwood Trailhead back to Mazama Village encompassed nearly half of the mileage, so Jane and I can attest to the grueling climbs that the adventuresome duo committed to.

Joe and Amy Ready to Circle the Rim of Crater Lake

Jane and I accompanied Joe and Amy to the park headquarters where they unloaded their vintage bikes and prepared to depart. Both have old road bikes with only twelve to fourteen gears, so this added additional difficulty to the rim ride challenge. As parents are apt to do, we made sure they had sun screen and water and spare tires before we wished them luck and watched them roll down the road.

Wizard Island from Watchman Overlook

While the cyclists were doing their thing, Jane and I picked out two moderate hikes to tackle. Our first stop was a fire overlook called The Watchman. Visiting The Watchman entailed a 1.6 mile roundtrip hike, but it was well worth the effort. A small building stood at the terminus of the trail, and we climbed the stairs and enjoyed spectacular views of Crater Lake and Wizard Island. As we stood on the north side of the platform, we could see the dense volume of smoke that was created by the wildfire that burned out of control in the northwest corner of the park. Fortunately the main body of the smoke cloud hovered in the atmosphere north of Crater Lake so that our views were largely unobstructed.

Smoke Haze in the Distance

After we returned to the car, we stopped at Lightning Spring and ate our light lunches and then moved on to Rim Village and Crater Lake Lodge. The old but recently remodeled lodge was perched on the edge of the crater wall, and many guests enjoyed the view from the small deck while sipping coffee or an  alcoholic beverage. The scene appeared to be quite restful, but we had another hike to complete, so we once again moved on.

The Deck at Crater Lake Lodge

Our final hike for the day was Plaikni Falls, and reaching this destination caused us to drive southeastward on East Rim Drive until we turned south on Pinnacles Road. The hike to Plaikni Falls was only two miles roundtrip, and the elevation rise and fall was fairly minimal. The falls were pretty, but fairly narrow, and ten to fifteen tourists rested and posed for photos while Jane and I did the same.

Plaikni Falls

Not Too Much Farther

As we returned to East Rim Drive, we estimated that Joe and Amy would be passing through during the late afternoon time window, so we found a pullout at the top of a long hill and waited for their arrival. Sure enough within fifteen minutes they came into view as they climbed a relentless uphill. They rested and stretched and chatted a bit, and then they resumed their quest to finish the endurance test. Jane and I drove ahead to the top of another steep uphill section, and we once again waited and offered them encouragement.

Another Climb

This was our last contact with the cycling pair until they arrived at our campsite at five o’clock. We were all quite proud of their accomplishment, although it took some food and water before Amy was feeling positive about her experience. For dinner on Thursday Amy prepared beans and rice while Joe built a campfire which we used to grill some leftover bratwursts. These ingredients were combined in a tortilla to yield a tasty burrito to satisfy everyone’s hunger. While preparing the meal I noticed that our camping neighbors were waving crawfish above a pot, so I visited their table. A young thirteen year old camper had apparently captured ten crawfish from the rocky shores of Crater Lake. In addition he discovered a trap that had not been emptied for several days, and he was offered the captured crustaceans. He and his mother combined all the shell fish to create a boiled crawfish feast, and Joe and I each sampled one. They were OK, but a small cup of melted butter would have enhanced the taste.

What a Natural Feast

It was a challenging and fun day at Crater Lake. We all looked forward to returning to Portland for showers and clean clothing, but we were also sad to say goodbye to the beautiful clean cold waters. Crater Lake National Park actually lived up to and probably exceeded our expectations.

National Parks Tour Day 6 Crater Lake 08/19/2015 Photo Album

The main attraction of Crater Lake National Park is obviously the lake itself. Seeing it up close, however, is a bit of a challenge. A boat cruise and tour exists, but reserving a spot and getting to the boat launch present some challenges.

Jane attempted to reserve four places on the guided boat tour with a stop on Wizard Island in advance of our trip, but each time she was informed that we were rejected. The only option left was the boat cruise kiosk at the Mazama Village gift shop, so while we waited for Joe and Amy to arrive on Tuesday afternoon, we paid the shop a visit. Amazingly we had no trouble reserving seats on the boat that departed at 11AM, and we were relieved to print four passes from the kiosk ticket dispenser. The tickets stated that we needed to begin our descent on the Cleetwood Trail one hour before departure, and we had a 45 minute drive from Mazama Village to the trailhead.

Looking Back at Annie Creek from High Up

After breakfast on Wednesday morning we had some spare time, so we found the trailhead for the Annie Creek Canyon Trail. This trail began behind the amphitheater where we witnessed Tim Elam’s presentation on Tuesday night, and it descended down a steep path littered with switchbacks. The trail was only 1.7 miles long in total, but it was rated moderate due to the steep climb necessary to exit the canyon. Amy found a guide book in a small box at the trailhead and read us descriptions at numbered stopping points along the way. When we reached the bottom of the canyon next to Annie Creek, we felt like we were in a different world with thick vegetation, a bubbling stream and moss covered rocks.

With adequate lead time we jumped in the Santa Fe and made the drive nearly half way around Crater Lake until we reached the Cleetwood Trailhead parking area. All the spaces were occupied, so we found a place along the shoulder of the rim road. The hike down the 1.1 mile trail with a 700 foot vertical drop was a piece of cake, but we all shuddered to think of the strenuous climb back out of the crater at the end of our much anticipated cruise.

Steep Descent

The Boat Launch

We reached the end of the trail and the boat launch in thirty minutes and used the rest room facilities since none were available on the cruise boat. As I exited the small bathroom, I looked down to the small cove below and spotted several young fly fishermen and some brave swimmers. Tim Elam informed us that the water temperature was a relatively constant forty-five degrees, and that is cold for swimming. The guide book stated that the fishing was very challenging due to the depth and clarity of the water and the steep drop off. Apparently the lake harbors kokanee salmon and rainbow trout that were stocked many years ago.

And Some Fly Fishermen

Amy Cools Her Feet

When I returned to the rocky shoreline next to the dock, I sat on a rock perch and observed the water while Amy removed her shoes and socks and dangled her legs in the water. The water was extremely clear and very calm, and in the fifteen minutes before we departed, I salivated at the constant rings in front of me from rising fish. Why did the guide book scare me off from bringing my fly rod to the edge of the lake? Most of the rises appeared to be quite small fish, but every once in a while my trained eye noticed a more substantial surface disturbance accompanied by a deep slurp sound.

At the scheduled hour our group boarded the cruise boat, and we departed for Wizard Island. We cruised along the north shore of the lake, and we discovered that our tour guide was the same Tim Elam that delivered the excellent presentation the previous evening. He described several rock formations, but it was not long before we moored at the Wizard Island dock and exited our tour craft.

Wizard Island Getting Closer

Our first move on Wizard Island was to hike a very rocky path toward Fumarole Bay. Before we reached the rocky shoreline, we found a shady spot among the rocks and enjoyed our lunch. After lunch we reversed our course until we reached the intersection with the trail that led us to the summit of Wizard Island. We learned from our guide that Wizard Island is actually a volcano within a volcano. The original volcanic mountain collapsed into the large crater that filled up with water and became Crater Lake, and then in the years afterward a small eruption produced the cone shaped island now called Wizard Island. The trail climbs 700 feet over .9 mile from the boat dock to the rim of the cone.

Looking Down at Skell Channel

A Group Photo

Amy, Joe, Jane and I set our sights on reaching the top despite a hot smokey day in Oregon, and we accomplished our goal. Jane and I circled the circumference of the rim and snapped a few photos. The whitebark pines clustered on the northeast rim created a unique scene with their twisted and gnarled trunks and limbs. The return hike was much more enjoyable, and we made sure to arrive at the dock with time to spare before the return boat appeared. Jane, Amy and Joe sat on the end of the dock and dangled their feet in the ice cold water. In fact Joe took it an extra step and jumped into the clear deep lake and then drank the pure ice cold liquid. He did not seem to acquire any negative after-effects in the following days while we were present in Oregon.

Gnarly

When the return boat arrived, we all boarded, and the vessel cruised along the western and southern shoreline. Tim pointed out several additional landmarks, but to me the most striking was the rock formation know as Phantom Ship. I expected to see a ship captain bearing a telescope on the deck at any moment.

Silhouette of Phantom Ship

Of course our greatest challenge was still ahead of us; the ascent of Cleetwood Trail back to the crater rim and our car. When the time arrived to vacate the cruise boat, we gritted our teeth and leaned into the climb. Jane and I actually passed quite a few of our boat mates and arrived at the rim road in reasonable condition after pausing once or twice along the way.

After a very active day we enjoyed a delicious dinner of bratwursts grilled in beer and topped with sauteed onions and peppers including a Santa Fe grande hot pepper from our garden. Joe is a keen devotee of hot peppers, and he offered his informed approval of our garden produce.

Wednesday was one of the best days of our road trip. Neither Jane nor I could imagine visiting Crater Lake without undertaking the cruise and stepping on Wizard Island. Words cannot describe the unique beauty of this deep clear body of water situated in the middle of a volcanic crater and surrounded by a steep craggy rim. It is a must see for any lover of natural beauty.

National Parks Tour Day 5 Lassen Volcanic to Crater Lake 08/18/2015 Photo Album

Tuesday August 18 was a day of transition for us, as we packed up our camping gear at Lassen Volcanic National Park and drove six hours to Crater Lake National Park. This was new terrain for both of us, so we enjoyed the drive immensely.

Lassen Peak Erupted in 1915

Boulder Tossed Three Miles During 1915 Eruption

Since we had all day to make the trip, we stopped on the north side of Lassen at the Devastation Area. Ironically the last eruption of Lassen Peak was one hundred years ago in 1915, and at that time the northeast side of the mountain blew out and hurled debris for great distances. The hot lava combined with melting snow to flood the streams and create new lakes in the area. The Devastation Area has trails that enable the visitor to browse one of the areas that retains much of the character of the post-eruption time. We stopped to read about the 1915 event and marveled at the huge boulders that were tossed over three miles. A photographer was present at the time of one of the eruptions a century ago, and he captured some spectacular photos.

Rocks in the Devastation Area from the Eruption 100 Years Ago

We left the park in the late morning and continued toward the northwest until we intersected with interstate 5. The next leg of our trip displayed the sad situation that exists in northern California and the Pacific Northwest during the summer of 2015. The landscape was parched and portrayed all the characteristics of a tinder box. Grass looked like straw and was brittle to the touch. Shrubs and leafy vegetation displayed brown curled leaves, but the most distressing visual was the heavy layer of smoke that pervaded the atmosphere in every direction. Every time we exited the car, the air smelled like a campfire as wildfires raged through the region.

Snowfields on 14,000 Ft. Mt. Shasta

I followed our northern progression on the road atlas, and I was excited to realize that we would pass by Redding, CA and then Mt. Shasta. I read numerous articles in my fly fishing magazines about streams in this area, and a well known fly shop is located in Redding. Unfortunately as we passed over the McCloud River, I was depressed to see the low level and the large margins of exposed stream bed. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 foot volcanic peak northeast of Redding, and I could barely see several snowfields through the smokey haze that engulfed the tall prominent peak.

As we progressed farther north the smoke became worse rather than better. We talked to our daughter Amy on the phone, and she informed us that the north entrance to Crater Lake National Park was closed due to wildfires. We were unaffected by this news, as we were entering from the south, but it was concerning nonetheless. How would this situation affect our ability to view Crater Lake and all the landmarks that it offers?

By late afternoon we entered the national park and drove northwest on the main highway, route 62, until we turned right and passed through the Annie Spring entrance station. Just beyond the entrance gate we turned right and parked at the camping kiosk for Mazama Village, where we waited in line to check in. A young lady behind the counter confirmed our reservation and informed us that we could select any brown post campsite in the E loop. We were unaccustomed to not reserving a specific campsite, but we went with the flow and drove to our loop and made a long circle before we selected site 54 since it appeared to provide more space for two tents and a party of four.

Bikes Stashed in Oregon Forest for Hike to Canyon Rim

Amy and Joe were not expected until 6PM since they were required to detour from the north to the south entrance, so we assembled our new tent and then hopped on our bikes and explored the area. We biked north and then east for a mile, and then we stashed our bicycles behind some large trees and walked to the edge of the Annie Creek canyon. We were both amazed that such a tiny stream could cut such a deep trough in the volcanic soil. On the return ride we parked our bikes at a trailhead that led to the Pacific Crest Trail, and from here we hiked to Annie Spring which is the source of Annie Creek.

Annie Creek Emerges from the Mountain as a Spring Here

We returned to the campground and posted a sign on the bulletin board at the kiosk so Amy and Joe would know where to find us, and then we cruised through the other loops and also checked out the hiker/biker area that was nearly across from our loop. During this survey of the campground we discovered that we could have reserved a nicer campsite by selecting one of the larger categories. We chose small tent because that is what we have, but we now learned that we could have upgraded to large tent or even small RV, and these sites offered much more space. Of course these sites also cost more per night, but I was eligible for a senior discount of 50% off.

A Steller’s Jay Settles Down on My Handlebars in Front of Our New Tent

Eventually we returned to the campsite just as Joe and Amy arrived. We helped them unpack, and Jane began dinner while they set up their tent. After dinner we took a walk at dusk and discovered that there was a campground talk at the amphitheater at 8:00PM. We elected to stay for the presentation, and a volunteer ranger named Tim Elam conveyed a large quantity of information about Crater Lake. Crater Lake is actually a volcano that last erupted 7,700 years ago. When the magma spewed out of the earth, it emptied the large cavity beneath the mountain, and the lack of mass caused the earth to implode creating a huge crater. Over the next 500 years the crater filled with rain water until it reached its current volume.

The volume of water remains in equilibrium as water seeps through the soil and becomes the source of famous rivers in Oregon such as the Umpqua, Rogue and Klamath. If rainfall is above normal, it creates more pressure on the seep, and outflows increase. When drought and low snow level conditions occur, the pressure is less, and the outflow decreases. Crater Lake is one of the deepest lakes on earth, and the water is a constant 45 degrees and crystal clear. Supposedly it is clean enough to drink without treatment or filtration.

After the talk ended we returned to our campsite and after a board game, we retired to our sleeping bags. We all pondered our new knowledge of Crater Lake and volcanoes, and we anxiously looked forward to our boat cruise on Wednesday.

National Parks Tour Day 4 Lassen Volcanic National Park 08/17/2015 Photo Album

Volcanoes are an intriguing natural phenomenon. Most of the remainder of our national parks road trip revolved around these amazing geologic creations, and the next stop was Lassen Volcanic National Park.

We were refreshed and clean as we departed the hot hazy parking lot of the Grand Sierra Resort in Reno, NV on Monday morning. We ate a tasty breakfast in the casino cafe and then hit the road anxious to gain our first look at the sparsely populated northeastern corner of California. It was not long before we encountered a smokey haze that continually wafted across the landscape. The combination of the smoke cloud, the constant smell of burning wood, and the hot August air temperatures conveyed the feeling of being a resident of the underworld. I have never been in the underworld, but it matched the descriptions I read. As bad as the atmosphere seemed on our route to Lassen, we would learn that it was modest compared to areas that we would pass through later on our trip.

When we reached Susanville, CA we stopped at a Safeway to restock the cooler with ice and food. We were planning for four nights of camping meals in Lassen and Crater Lake, and Susanville appeared to be the last significant town that offered a supermarket. I also made an impulse buy of a 22 ounce bottle of Eagle Lake Ale that was brewed at the local brewery, Lassen Ale Works. From Susanville we angled westward on route 89 and passed through some small towns before we entered Lassen National Park from the south. Almost immediately we encountered a visitor center and made a quick visit. I spoke to a young park ranger at the counter and discovered that he was from Westminster, CO and a fly fisherman. He pronounced the fishing on the south side of the park a non-event due to the drought and low warm water, but he did mention that Hat Creek on the north side offered some decent angling. I was not planning to fish, but I am always interested in scouting out new water and talking about fly fishing.

We found a picnic table in the shade of some huge evergreens at a campground next to the visitor center parking lot, and we paused to make our lunches before continuing. Some raucous stellar’s jays eyed our food and fluttered about from tree to tree as we munched. We conjectured that they were accustomed to frequent handouts from the tourists and campers that pass through Lassen.

A Mudpot at the Sulfur Works

After lunch we continued on the main park road, and our first stop was the Sulphur Works. Here we learned that Mathias Supan started a sulfur mining operation in 1865. Initially he sold medicinal products from the sulfur mine, but as profits faded, he wisely converted to a tourist spot with mineral baths, a restaurant and gift shop. In 1952 the government acquired the Sulphur Works site from the Supan family. Today one can stop and inspect a large bubbling mud pot situated adjacent to the sidewalk. In fact a plywood board is nailed to the fence to protect tourists from splashes of hot matter, and a rope barrier prevents sightseers from moving too close.

Steam Spewing from This Hole

We jumped back in the car and continued along the main park road for another three miles until we reached the trailhead for Bumpass’s Hell. We read about this in the Fodor’s national parks book, so we found a scarce parking spot, and prepared to complete the 3.2 mile round trip hike. It was now early afternoon, and the air temperature was pushing the thermometer toward ninety degrees. This along with the parched vegetation and the increased amount of smoke particulates created an eerie scene at the start of our hike.

This Used to Be a Volcanic Peak

A Hillside of Flowers

We marched along on the well defined path and passed some pretty hillsides covered with light purple flowers. Based on the shape of the flower and the leaves, I speculated that the wildflowers were some form of lupine. After forty-five minutes of climbing and baking in the sun, we reached an overlook where we could see a large section of the landscape filled with many thermal features. The addition of mud pots, sulfur steam from fumaroles, boiling hot springs, and toxic ponds made the already bizarre landscape even more akin to an inferno.

Overlooking Bumpass’s Hell

We stopped to read the signs and learned that we were in the spot where Mt. Tehama towered 11,000 feet above sea level half a million years ago. The magma pool that fueled the volcano continues to reside below Bumpass’s Hell and the Sulphur Works, and this explains the thermal activity. Additional thermal outlets exist to the east in the form of Devils Kitchen, Boiling Springs Lake, and Terminal Geyser; but we did not elect to take time to make the drive. The magma pool below Mt. Tehama is the source for all the geothermal features cited.

Looks Like a Chemical Waste Dump

Pyrite Scum

When we returned to the car, we once again continued to the northeast for another eight miles until we reached Summit Lake South. We reserved a campsite in the Summit Lake South Campground, so we cruised the road until we found our loop and campsite. We set up our tent and then took a quick bike ride to check out the Summit Lake Trailhead as well as Summit Lake North Campground. As we pedaled back through our loop we spotted a mother grouse perched on a tree stump monitoring her two chicks as they fed along the side of the road.

A Grouse in Our Campground

After we reached the campsite and stashed our bicycles, we hiked along the eastern edge of Summit Lake to the north shore where Jane waded thirty yards into the clear cool and shallow water. She insisted that she totally enjoyed the experience and tried to coax me in as well, but I am note a fan of cold water.

Deepest Point

Our day in Lassen Volcanic National Park was quite enjoyable, and we learned quite a bit about volcanoes and geothermal features. We had a great time, and we looked forward to new adventures on Tuesday.

Our Campsite at Summit Lake South

Should gambling be legalized in all states? As an economics major I tend to believe that individuals should be allowed to make free choices about how they spend their money. Why should the government legislate morality? If citizens wish to spend their money on tobacco, alcohol, and gambling; why should they not be given the freedom of choice to do so? I suspect that those against legalized gambling would argue that it is an addiction, and many individuals are not capable of making sound decisions. If gambling debts pile up, victims can affect other innocent citizens through criminal actions.

Jane and I were in the only state with legalized gambling, Nevada, and I pondered this topic as we drove across the state on the loneliest highway in the United States. Perhaps the vast stretches of barren land in this western state dictated that legal gambling needed to exist to entertain the sparse population of the state. We traveled through miles and miles of desert landscape that was occasionally interrupted by mountain ranges that ran from north to south. Our trip across Nevada certainly reinforced the description of the Great Basin.

Our goal for Sunday was to travel to Reno, NV where we booked a room at the Grand Sierra Resort. Our next national park destination was Lassen Volcanic National Park, but we felt the drive from Great Basin to Lassen was too much for one day. The rates at the Grand Sierra were quite attractive at $50 per night plus a $16 resort fee. For $66 a night we could enjoy a nice relatively modern room, and we could take advantage of a shower after one day and night of camping. Of course this presupposed that we could keep our cash in our pockets and not feed the greedy slot machines or other games of chance.

We arrived at the Grand Sierra by late afternoon and checked into our room with no glitches. After some quick showers we took the elevator down from the fifteenth floor to the casino and explored the scene. The Grand Sierra was similar to moderate sized casinos in Las Vegas that I have been in, and of course the gaming area and slot machines were teaming with eager spenders. Sitting at a slot machine and feeding money repetitively into a one armed bandit seems quite pathetic, but we saw many people doing it. We wandered through all the gaming areas…craps, roulette, bacarat, poker and sports book; but we managed to keep all our cash in our pockets.

After we circled the premises including the “beach”, a large swimming pool on the north side of the casino, we strolled along restaurant row with the goal of selecting an eating spot for Sunday night. The casino offered all the cuisines one would expect; Asian, Mexican, Italian, a steakhouse, a burger cafe and a buffet. We chose the Asian restaurant and were seated quickly. For some reason the smell of smoke seemed to permeate the air in the Asian restaurant even though we did not see any smokers nearby. We patiently waited as others were seated and their orders were taken, so after ten minutes without any sort of greeting from the wait staff, we departed and moved to the Mexican restaurant.

Here we were seated quickly and instantly served corn chips and directed to the salsa bar. This restaurant did not smell like cigarette smoke, and we finally had food to munch on. After dinner we returned to our rooms and took advantage of the WiFi that came with our resort fee. If the rest of the world mirrored Jane and me, casinos would not be very profitable operations. Adults should be free to choose whether to gamble or not. There is probably a role for the government to assure that gambling establishments are fair and ethical, but I do not agree that the government should prevent gambling in any state.

National Park Tour Day 2 Great Basin 08/15/2015 Photo Album

Great Basin National Park is one of the least visited parks in the United States. Evidently other U.S. citizens do not relish traveling across the expansive Great Basin in Utah and Nevada to reach this gem near the eastern edge of Nevada. Jane and I are typically contrarians, and our enjoyment of Great Basin reinforces that label.

After a continental breakfast at the La Quinta, we got off to an early start and back tracked for 65 miles to the eastern entrance to Great Basin at a small town called Baker. We stopped at the visitor center outside of Baker to get an overview of our destination, and then we proceeded from Baker to the Lehman Cave Visitor Center. The Lehman Cave tour is one of the main attractions, so we hoped to confirm a tour reservation. A man behind the counter quickly informed us that the only open spots were in the 3 and 4PM tours, so we signed up for 4PM and departed. A cave tour at 4PM as air temperatures peaked would be a welcome relief.

Interesting Sign Near Our Campground

Our next concern was a campsite. We were arriving on Saturday, the middle of the weekend. The Great Basin campgrounds do not offer a reservation system, so we banked on the remoteness of the park yielding available campsites. The young man at the Lehman visitor center suggested that we check out Baker Creek Campground first, as it is on a gravel road and not along the paved thoroughfare that leads to most of the park attractions. We followed his advice and drove approximately five miles to the Baker Creek Campground where we found 50% of the sites unoccupied. We cruised all the loops and chose a nice site on the eastern most circle. The picnic table was surrounded by pinon pine and juniper trees, and a nice hard gravel area was ideal for tent placement.

Our Perfect Campsite at Baker Creek

After paying our fee for one night, we climbed back in the car to explore as much of the park as we could before honoring our cave tour reservation. We drove to the main paved road and began a slow twisting westward ascent which eventually deposited us at a small parking lot below Wheeler Peak. Along the way we stopped at several overlooks to enjoy the spectacular vistas before us. The parking lot that served the trail heads for the lakes trail, rock glacier and the bristlecone pine grove was full, but we spotted a young couple returning to their car and asked if they were leaving. They replied that yes, indeed they were vacating their spot, so we quickly snagged it and prepared to hike.

Onward

The trail to the bristlecone pine grove was 1.4 miles one way, and Jane and I managed to make the climb in 45 minutes. Since we live in the mile high city, the elevation did not bother us, and the air temperatures at this high altitude portion of the park were a pleasant 67 degrees. When we reached the pine grove, a park ranger informed us that he was making a presentation at 1PM, so we hurried our pace and continued on the trail to the rock glacier area. This scene was a wide valley completely filled with a jumble of large boulders and largely devoid of any vegetation. We read the plaque and then hustled back down the trail to the grove of trees where the park ranger had already begun his presentation.

Our Endpoint

We learned quite a bit about bristlecone pines. They are the oldest living organisms on earth, and a research scientist mistakenly cut one down that was 5,000 years old. Killing the oldest known living thing on earth did not make him very popular, but it allowed a laborious ring count that yielded the age of the tree. The name stems from the cone, as it has tiny spikes on each small scale that emanates from the stem of the cone. The longevity of the bristlecone pine is attributed to three factors: a sturdy constitution that allows it to withstand very adverse conditions, living in a location that is too harsh for most organisms, and helpful neighbors that assist in the dispersion of seeds.

A Bristlecone

Jane in Front of a Live Bristlecone

After the informative ranger talk, Jane and I circled the grove and snapped some photographs of the gnarly old specimen, and then we retreated back down the mountain to the parking lot. As we drove from the parking lot toward the visitor center, we stopped and completed a short hike to the Osceola Ditch. I was perplexed over why a ditch merited a hiking trail, but when we reached the overgrown trench, we read the information plaque which provided the answer. Apparently gold was discovered in the next valley north of the park that was called Spring Valley, but the area was too dry and required water. The early miners built a long ditch that transported water from Lehman Creek to Spring Valley, but unfortunately after a lot of labor and cost, the mine played out, and investors were left with a large write off.

Dave in the Osceola Ditch

Our next stop was our campsite, where we used our extra hour to assemble our tent, and then we returned to the Lehman Cave visitor center where we completed a short hiking loop. At 4PM our tour guide appeared, and we pulled on our jackets and completed the Lehman Cave tour with eighteen other tourists. The tour guide was excellent, as he provided us with much information about caves, formations, entrances and history.

Lehman Cave

We returned to our campground for a quick dinner, and then we once again traveled to the visitor center for a ranger talk on the stars. Great Basin is so remote that it offers one of the best environments in the United States for star gazing. The ranger stressed that no white lights were allowed, and then he presented a brief slide show while we waited for the skies to darken. Sure enough, once there was an absence of light in the night sky, a dense mass of stars, galaxies and planets appeared above us. The ranger directed our attention to the northern sky and predicted that the international space station would appear at 9:10. Sure enough a bright object that moved faster than any other celestial bodies appeared and sped half way across the sky before disappearing.

One of the most impressive aspects of the presentation was the laser that the ranger held in his possession. This instrument could project light in a narrow beam 60 miles into space, and he demonstrated its usefulness by pinpointing Saturn and various stars in the night sky. While the presentation was being delivered, some younger rangers set up telescopes on the left side of the visitor center parking lot. The lead ranger invited us all to line up in two queues behind the telescopes, and we were free to use the telescope to view Saturn. Jane and I each had a look, but the line was so long, that we decided to not return to the end in order to view the next celestial body.

Instead we slowly walked to our car without the aid of light, and then I backed out of our parking space and crept to the exit without lights. We did not want to shine white light on the area where the telescopes were set up. Once I turned and drove away from the visitor center, I turned on the lights. We saw a lot on Saturday at Great Basin, but the night presentation was clearly the most impressive. Why Great Basin is one of the least visited parks remains a mystery to us.

National Park Tour Day 1 08/14/2015 Photo Album

Jane and I began planning our August national park tour in early spring. Our ultimate destination was Crater Lake National Park in Oregon, but we decided to drive, and this opened up many additional possibilities along our path. Our daughter Amy and her boyfriend Joe, would join us at Crater Lake, and then we planned to travel north to their home in Portland, OR. This would be Amy’s final days of her summer vacation from the Pacific University physical therapy program, as she was scheduled to resume classes on Monday August 24. Jane suggested that I could incorporate some fishing destinations on our return trip in Washington or Oregon, but as the date of our departure approached, I checked the fishing conditions in the Pacific northwest and discovered that severe drought conditions forced many streams to close. If they were not officially closed, the departments of wildlife were suggesting that fishermen exercise extreme care in handling and releasing fish. Given the relatively favorable stream conditions in Colorado, I decided to forego fishing in the northwest, and instead made plans to drive directly back to Colorado, where I could utilize my fishing time in the high country or in tailwaters.

Nothingness in Eastern Utah

On Friday the car was strategically packed so that we could access our clothing and snacks without removing our bicycles, since we planned to stay in a hotel for our first night in Nevada. Our route took us west on interstate 70 and then across Utah before we intersected with U.S. 50. Jane read in her national park guide book that U.S. 50 is the loneliest road in the United States, and our drive across western Utah and eventually Nevada made us a believer in this label. The hot August sun elevated temperatures to the high 80’s and low 90’s, and the desolate desert terrain made it feel like 100. The most interesting landmark on our trek across Utah was Sevier Lake. The map indicated that this area was typically dry, but during the summer of 2015 a vast expanse of water sprawled across the desert to the south of the highway. Like many lakes in the Great Basin including the Great Salt Lake, this lake has no outlet, and consequently the water maintains a high salt content.

Typical Scene Along Our Route

The Great Basin in the United States stretches from the Wasatch Mountains in Utah westward to the Sierra Nevada range in California. Large wide basins containing mostly scrub grass and sagebrush are interrupted by mountain ranges that run from north to south. These ranges are mostly barren rocky ranges that thrust skyward, and as we drove west, we confirmed that that these descriptions were accurate.

After we crossed into Nevada during the late afternoon, we proceeded west past the entrance to Great Basin National Park until we reached the La Quinta Inn in Ely, NV. We checked in and were pleased to learn that our reservation was active, and then we drove to the center of the small town. Ely was formerly a mining hot bed, but it appeared to be somewhat depressed in its current state, although it did offer numerous small motels since it was the closest significant population center to Great Basin National Park. Our La Quinta and a Days Inn were the only chain lodging facilities that we encountered.

Since we already had our room for the night, we were interested in dinner, but the choices seemed relatively limited. We cruised the main downtown avenue and finally parked at the western end of town, and then we ambled down the street until we reached the Nevada Hotel. The facade of this establishment suggested many years of existence, so we entered and surveyed the scene. Instantly we were assaulted with the sounds of a gambling casino and the ever present cigarette smoke, but a nice cafe lurked off the left side. We reviewed the menu and then crossed to the Jailhouse Casino on the opposite side of the street.

A large sign advertised a steak house which had an entrance off a side street, so we followed the arrow and found the restaurant in the back. This eating establishment appeared to provide more separation from the casino area, but it was at the end of a dark dingy hallway. A quick perusal of the menu revealed prices 25-30% higher than the Hotel Nevada, so we executed a U-turn and reversed our steps to our first stop.

Jane Inspects a Slot at the Hotel Nevada

After dinner Jane and I circled the small casino, but we managed to keep our cash in our pockets. After a long day of traveling, we returned to our rooms and crashed in short order. We accomplished our goal of reaching Ely, Nevada at the doorstep of Great Basin on Friday August 14.

Lake Loop Trail Photo Album

At what age should a human being cease venturing on to single track trails with a mountain bike? I actually pledged to avoid this situation five years ago, so how did I find myself in the midst of a moderately difficult Lake Loop Trail in South Dakota?

During June in most years I hunker down and wait out the run off that bloats the streams and rivers in Colorado from the middle of May until the end of June or even sometimes the middle of July. Occasionally I searched out a cold water lake, but when I was working, it was an opportunity to get caught up so that I could fish frequently once the streams dropped to prime levels. But now I was retired, and I had more time, so why not travel to a part of the country that is not subject to high mountain snow melt?

The Black Hills of South Dakota stood out as a viable option that met my criteria. The terrain is referred to as hills and not mountains, right? With this solid reasoning swirling through my brain, I reserved a USFS campsite for Whitetail Campground at Deerfield Reservoir in the Black Hills of South Dakota for June 12 and 13. Jane and I felt it was prudent to reserve a campsite since the dates coincided with a weekend, and we noticed that most of the sites were reserved at Custer State Park.

We packed the Santa Fe on Thursday evening and got off to a reasonably early start on Friday. We were anxious to test out our new Coleman propane camp stove and 50 gallon cooler. We arrived at our reserved campsite by 6PM on Friday evening without any significant incident, making the trip in seven hours including thirty minutes of stoppage time for bathroom breaks and switching drivers. Our camp site was tucked at the farthest end of the upper loop away from the lake and next to the campground hosts.  After we erected the tent and appeared to be reasonably situated in our new home, the campground hostess approached us and provided some information. I took advantage of the local source of information and asked if she had any maps of the area that showed hiking and biking trails.

Ready for Action

Pam’s eyes lit up, and she returned from her RV after a few moments with a map of the Deerfield Reservoir national forest area. The hiking and biking options consisted of an eleven mile lake loop and a long trail that began below Deerfield Reservoir and continued to Pactola Reservoir. Pam’s husband, Jim, an employee of the national forest service joined us and warned that there were numerous fallen trees on the Lake Loop Trail that had not yet been cleared.

On Saturday morning after a breakfast of blueberry pancakes, Jane and I decided to undertake a bike ride on one of the trails on the map. Our campground was along the Lake Loop, and eleven miles seemed like a nice moderate distance so that became our choice. We applied sunscreen and filled our hydration bladders and set out on the dirt road that skirted the southern shore of the lake. This was a pleasant one mile, and then we turned right on to paved route 17, but after less than a mile we reached the inlet where Castle Creek flowed into the lake. Just above the inlet a small bridge spanned Castle Creek which was probably double its normal size.

Could this be the Lake Loop? I pulled out the map and studied it and concluded that this was in fact the Lake Loop. The path on the opposite side of the creek was covered with grass and not worn like we expected. In fact we did not even anticipate that the Lake Loop was a single track. After a quick conference, Jane and I decided to press on. The first sign that we were in for an adventure beyond our naive assumption was the large number of small evergreen trees that leaned over the path. We managed to avoid them, but this involved frequent turns from one side of the path to the other, and in some cases ducking and taking advantage of the protection provided by our helmets.

Jane Attacks the Trail

The first mile was fairly flat, but then we encountered a sharp uphill section of single track. I mustered my best single track adrenaline rush and managed to complete the first climb, but the up and down terrain would continue for another two or three miles. Eventually we surrendered our pride and pushed our bikes up the steep inclines over the numerous rocks and roots that attempted to block our progress. Of course, as mentioned by the campground hosts, we also dismounted on several occasions and lifted our bikes over large fallen trees.

We thought we were conquering the unanticipated technical single track when we found ourselves on a double track path that had been driven on by a vehicle within the last year. This stretch was less technical, but it did challenge us with a steep climb. As we crested the hill, we found ourselves on a maintained gravel road, and we could not find a trail on the other side of the road. Once again we consulted the map and determined that we were on the road that accessed the North Shore trail head, and we had somehow missed a turn that allowed us to remain on the Lake Loop. No problem, we made a right and continued down the gravel road until we found signs for the Lake Loop and resumed our progress on the rolling single track.

Back Near the Lake

We had already dodged small evergreens, climbed over logs, climbed steep wooded hills and gotten lost. What else could this trail throw at us? Water. After more steep up and down roller coaster terrain, we reached a crude log crossing of a small stream. Two or three logs were placed side by side across the stream which was also flowing at a volume two to three times normal. I went first and began to try and carry my bike while attempting to balance on the slippery wet logs. Fortunately Jane suggested that I roll the bike through the water and mud and use it as a crutch to lean on. I came to my senses and accepted her suggestion and made the crossing without drenching my only pair of sneakers. Jane followed me and accomplished the crossing without incident as well.

Yikes, a Stream Crossing

A Pretty Spot on the Lake Loop

Unfortunately as we continued and cautiously descended a steep downhill through some tall grass, Jane’s front tire skidded on an angled log, and she collapsed in a heap. I heard her calls of distress and quickly returned to find her sprawled on top of her bike shrieking in pain. At this point I had visions of biking ahead for assistance, but the pain subsided and being the tough outdoor trooper that she is, she managed to stand and continue on. We would discover on Sunday that she acquired two large bruises on her inner thighs as reminders of the incident.

Once again we could see a small tributary stream ahead, and we assumed another stream crossing would be necessary. This was in fact true, but before we reached the crossing we were forced to negotiate a muddy bog that represented more evidence of the heavy rain received by the area within the previous week.

Finally we crossed the tiny brook and ascended a meadow until we reached a fence. The trail followed the fence line and then descended to another improved gravel road. The map indicated that this was the access road to Custer Trailhead, and Jane and I paused to consider our options. When we studied the map, we concluded that we completed 1/3 of the lake loop, and there was no indication that the nature of the trail would change for the next third. We came to our senses and decided to bail. Bailing was not a cushy ride, however, as we completed a long sustained climb of the Custer access road and then turned on to route 17 for some additional uphill exercise.

So Green

Eventually we reached the paved section and coasted downhill to the inlet and then returned on the dirt road to our campground. What an ordeal! We felt quite fortunate to escape our two hour ride with two large bruises on Jane’s legs, and truth be told we were quite proud of our accomplishment. Jane calculated that we rode for ten miles, although three miles consisted of the difficult technical single track. It was quite a kick off to our road trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota.