Author Archives: wellerfish

Myrarkvisl River – 05/22/2023

Time: 5:00PM – 8:30PM

Location: Pool 40 -41

Myrarkvisl River 05/22/2023 Photo Album

Monday evening was perhaps my best session so far in Iceland. The wind abated a bit, and more importantly it shifted direction, and this enabled me to stray from the spey casting routine to back casting and eventually dry/dropper fishing. For the first hour I fished the Mickey Finn, and the continuation of this method allowed me to land three very fine brown trout. These healthy fish  were all in the 18 – 19 inch range and exceptional fighters.

Ram Watching Us

Kype

Thicker Than a Brick

Part way through the evening session we rounded a bend, which put the wind in a different position, and Gilbert determined that we could switch to the dry/dropper method. Gilbert tied on a sausage fly (orange foam cylinder) in the upper position with his cased caddis on the dropper. I began firing casts upstream to all the promising channels. The right side of the river was covered with glare, so I was having a difficult time tracking the fly, but on a drift along the right bank, Gilbert shouted “set”, and I hooked my best fish of the trip, a 51 cm/ 20 inch brown. Needless to say, we celebrated this accomplishment.

Held Forward

I took a break to warm my hands, and Gilbert made some upstream casts through some faster, deep runs, but he cast close to the bank and snagged some deep roots. He was unable to free the flies and was forced to break off his treasured cased caddis and sausage flies. Undaunted, he replaced the sausage fly with another and replaced the caddis larva with a size 18 pheasant tail nymph. Over the next 1.5 hours I landed two more gorgeous brown trout of nineteen inches, and both smacked the pheasant tail.

Arms Getting Tired

The last fish of the day was perhaps the heaviest fish of the trip with an expansive girth on a nineteen inch frame. What a battle! This fish fought back and forth across the moderate center current at least six times and then up and down, before we could land the fish on 4X tippet. What a great day!

Fish Landed: 6

 

Myrarkvisl River – 05/22/2023

Time: 8:30AM – 12:15PM

Location: Pool 40

Myrarkvisl River 05/22/2023 Photo Album

Mud Banks Were Prime Targets

Mickey Finn Delivers

I was offered the opportunity to travel to two new rivers in northern Iceland on Monday, May 22; however, I declined because I sensed a developing cold, and the drive was 2.5 hours each way. The destination rivers offered the chance to catch Arctic char and sea trout (brown trout that live in the ocean), so I struggled with my decision, but in the end, I believe it was the correct one. Monday morning on the Myrarkvisl was a great time! I did much better with my spey casting, which I refer to as the swoop , dip and flip. This describes the motion of the cast which is necessary, when the wind blows from behind and toward the left for a right handed caster.

Again

Once again I spent the entire morning session chucking a streamer, but in this case, my guide, Gilbert, broke off the black ghost, while he was simply messing around, as we moved from pool to pool. He looked at his fly patch, spotted a Mickey Finn, and in a stroke of luck or genius tied it to my line. In total I landed six brown trout, and the first two snatched the black ghost, while the remainder grabbed the Mickey Finn. I am learning that streamer fishing features all manner of takes. Some are hard, aggressive grabs and some feel more tentative and soft. Among the more interesting are swirls followed by aggressive crashes. I also experienced a few, where the fish bumped the fly and then snatched it on a succeeding strip. These Iceland fish are dogged fighters and quite strong featuring runs, dives, headshakes and rolls.

Lovely Butter

Beautiful

All the morning fish were in the sixteen to nineteen inch range, and the nineteen inch beauty at the top of the range was my best so far. What a tussle it was! The girth was outstanding for a nineteen inch fish (47.5 cm in the local measurement system).

Fish Landed: 6

Successful Morning

Reykjadalsa River – 05/21/2023

Time: 5:00PM – 7:00PM

Location: High bank area

Reykajadalsa River 05/21/2023 Photo Album

On the Reykajadalsa River I fished the same black ghost streamer for a couple hours. The Reykajadalsa was slightly smaller than the Myrarkvisl River with very high banks in the area that we fished. The wind actually stopped for twenty minutes during my stay on the river, and I was able to false cast instead of spey cast. I landed two brown trout that measured fifteen and sixteen inches in length, but they did not possess the girth of similar length fish on the Myrarkvisl.

Fine Fish from a Different River

Number Two Also Excellent

My arm and neck were extremely fatigued, so we quit early at my insistence.

Fish Landed: 2

Myrarkvisl River – 05/21/2023

Time: 8:30AM – 11:00AM

Location: Pools 30 – 38.5

Myrarkvisl River 05/21/2023 Photo Album

Typical Water

Great Result

Gilbert and I once again drove the two-rutted lane from the lodge upstream. I fished the same six weight overlined with an eight weight line. The black ghost remained on my line throughout the session, and I cast to the far bank and swung and stripped the streamer through outstanding pools. Over the course of the morning session I landed seven amazing brown trout. They were all fat seventeen and eighteen inch fish. By far this was my best session of the trip. One fish created a wake, as it charged the fly, while it raced from the bank in pursuit of my imitation. In addition, I experienced three or four hits that did not convert into landed fish.

Very Nice Icelandic Brown Trout

Another Big Brown

These browns were powerful fish that dove and held and deployed head shakes in their effort to reach freedom. The colors and spots were superb on the wild and truly native trout of Iceland.

Fish Landed: 7

Jubilation

Langavantn Lake – 05/20/2023

Time: 7:30PM – 8:00PM

Location: Mostly the inlet area

I spent thirty minutes waded into the lake at the end near the inlet, as I was casting and stripping the black ghost with the cased caddis larva as a trailer. I was not successful, and I became quite chilled standing in the waist deep water.

Fish Landed: 0

Laxa River – 05/20/2023

Time: 4:30PM – 7:15PM

Location: Haga Beat

Laxa River 05/20/2023 Photo Album

I began my evening on the Laxa River by swinging and stripping the eight weight with a guides choice hares ear wet fly and a cased caddis larva that Gilbert created. The Laxa is a wide, meandering river in the location, where we fished, and owner Matti along with guest Pamela were present in the same beat. Gilbert instructed me, as we worked our way down a long run with no success. The wind was a constant force. Toward the end of the run, where the river deflected off a bank, Gilbert snapped off the eight weight demonstrating a cast against the wind. It was an example of two very strong forces colliding. We returned to the truck and switched to the six weight and overlined it with the eight weight line to counter the wind.

The Meandering and Wide Laxa River

Upon our return to the river I landed five small brown trout in the eleven to twelve inch range, but they were nonetheless very feisty fighters. Once we covered the area, we moved to a spot below the bridge, and once again covered a long shelf pool by swinging and stripping. No luck was forthcoming, so we departed for another location.

Fish Landed: 5

Best of the Evening Session

Myrarkvisl River – 05/20/2023

Time: 9:00AM – 11:00AM

Location: Beat 2, Pools 31 – 26

Myrarkvisl River 05/20/2023 Photo Album

Guide’s Patch

When I woke up on Saturday morning at the lodge, the wind was once again howling. I wore the same layers as Friday evening. Gilbert maneuvered his 4 Runner over a rough two track, and we began fishing above the wooden bridge in a pool bordered by a high vertical rock wall along the opposite bank. I worked this pool with the eight weight and the black ghost with no success, and then Gilbert switched to a small pink marabou streamer. This move was unappreciated by the fish, so we moved downstream to a horseshoe-shaped bend. I told Gilbert I was concerned about the strain on my elbow due to backhand casting in the wind, so he assembled a six weight and converted to a strike indicator nymphing setup with a locking Thingamabobber, split shot and squirmy wormy. The gel type fly did not produce, so he swapped it for a bright pink San Juan worm, and that did the trick.

Below This Bend Was a Prime Spot

On the first cast into some nervous, riffled water, a robust fifteen inch brown trout chowed on the worm. Gilbert told me the tippet was 2X, so I horsed the fish a bit more than I should have, but it worked out, and I gazed at a very colorful Icelandic brown trout. In another area with many conflicting currents, I landed a second brown of approximately thirteen inches on the San Juan worm. We tried a few more attractive pools between 10:15 and 11:00, but the constantly gusting wind was taxing my arm and casting, so we called it quits by 11:00AM. Based on my two stints on the river, I can foresee the fun that could be in my future should the wind abate.

Fish Landed: 2

Myrarkvisl River – 05/19/2023

Time: 5:00PM – 7:30PM

Location: Pools 51, 50, and 46.5

Myrarkvisl River 05/19/2023 Photo Album

After getting acclimated at the lodge I met my guide, Gilbert, and I found waders and wading boots with a perfect fit for my small stature. I was concerned about this issue, but the waders and boots actually fit better than my own. As we prepared to depart for an evening of fishing, the wind howled, and I was skeptical that we would even fish. I wore my long sleeve Columbia undershirt, a fishing shirt, my melanzana fleece hoodie, my light down North Face parka, and a rain shell; and I was comfortable for my 2.5 hours on the water.

Gilbert is a guide from Sweden in his fifth year of guiding with Iceland Fishing Guides, and we piled into his “new” used Toyota Four Runner with 210,000 miles. During the course of the 2.5 hours we passed through three crude farm gates, and we moved from pool to pool. I think we covered four such sections on the river.

Reminded Me of the North Platte

The fishing approach did not vary, only the casting. I was offered an eight weight rod with a weight forward head, and the working end contained a black ghost size 6. Gilbert ties his own flies, and the black ghost was one of his own. I spent my time shooting casts across or at a forty-five degree angle, and then stripping the streamer back in a big arc across the current. The pools were generally  deep slower moving troughs, but I also applied this technique to a couple nice deep entering riffles at the top of the pools.

Holding the Prize

In the second pool, as I paused the retrieve at the end of the swing, I felt a forceful bump, and reacted with a swift hookset. The fight was on, and after a spirited battle I edged a gorgeous silvery and spotted brown trout into Gilbert’s net. Needless to say, I was thrilled with this start to my Iceland adventure. Prior to the first catch, I also experienced a very brief bump, and Gilbert said it was a short strike. A short swirl was another predecessor to my landed trout.

Number Two

After a second pool we dropped into an area with steeper banks, and Gilbert had me switch to roll casting because of the high wind. Eventually the cross wind became so ridiculous, that I was executing (poorly) a form of spey casting with a downstream roll cast, and then an upstream flip and then a roll. In the third pool, which I assessed as the best, there was a nice deep boil above a series of stream improvement rocks. I made several swings through the pool, and we spotted a single swirl five feet above the rocks. Gilbert helped me swing the streamer through the area of the swirl with verbal direction, and a strong smash ensued. Wham! I stripped and connected with a fat seventeen inch brown. The fight followed, and I succeeded in landing the beast.

Sheep Jam

By the fourth pool the wind accelerated to dangerous levels, and Gilbert suggested that we call it a day, so we headed back to the lodge for dinner. Friday was a great introduction to my Iceland fishing adventure.

Fish Landed: 2

Iceland Day 4 – 05/17/2023

Iceland Day 4 05/17/2023 Photo Album

Rainbow Road

After spending the night in Egilstaor; Amy, Jane and I drove to Seyoisfjordur. We crested a ridge and rounded a curve, and the small town spread out before us with an out of place cruise ship/ferry anchored in the small harbor. Apparently the small artsy town on the northest coast is the end point for European travelers crossing the North Atlantic. We strolled about the small village, and this included viewing the rainbow path, the small blue church and hiking to a narrow waterfalls. Across from the falls was a small circular dock area with a number of picturesque fishing trawlers.

Looking Well Maintained

From Seyoisfjordur we reversed direction back to Egilstaor and then continued to the basalt canyon named Stuolagil, but Apple maps led us to a two-rut lane that was barely more than a cow path. After .5 mile we decided this drive was not feasible, so we turned around and discovered road signs to Stuolagil. The sign offered an option that involved a 10K hike into the canyon, but time did not allow this choice, so we drove to Gund with an amazing metal staircase that led to an overlook platform. Amy and Jane counted steps in excess of two hundred.

Loved These Curled Versions

Krafla Geothermal Area

The next couple of hours took us to a stop call Krafla in the Lake Myvatn area, where we completed a brief stroll among fumaroles, mud pots, and hot water pools. It was Yellowstonesque with the eerie steaming landscape. From Krafla we headed to our final destination at Myrarkvisl Lodge. Google maps took us within one mile, but we missed the turnoff, and I called Matti, who walked us through directions to the lodge between broken signals and wind noise.

On Friday night we shared the lodge with Pamela and Brian, and the guides joined us along with Chef Gunsi for a superb pork chop dinner with sweet potatoes, sweet corn and aioli salad over bread. Dessert was a superb vanilla flavored skyr with cinnamon biscuit topping.

Iceland Day 3 – 05/18/2023

Iceland Day 3 05/18/2023 Photo Album

Thursday began with another incredible continental breakfast deluxe. Skyr, pastries, and an assortment of fresh fruit were favorites on my plate. Once again we filled up with fuel and snacks, and we were off to the Hoffellsjokul Glacier. Our itinerary mentioned that the road from the highway to the glacier was a bit rough, and this prompted us to rent a 4X4 (Mitsubishi Outlander). While cautiously traveling the secondary road that led to the rough two-track, Jane spotted an arctic fox 75 yards away. It paused to look at us, and I snapped a pair of photos using my maximum telephoto (which is not that great). before it pranced off. The arctic fox is clearly identifiable in the photo, although rather small. Later, at the fishing lodge, the locals told us that we were lucky, as Arctic fox sightings are rare.

A Rare Arctic Fox Spotted

Huddled

Amy was in the driver’s seat, and the gravel road was indeed a bit rough, but we have driven worse in Colorado. The worst part was a small stream crossing at the outset, but Amy literally rocked it. The short hike over a steep hill revealed a panoramic view of a huge glacier lagoon littered with massive ice blocks. The initial view was another wow moment of our trip. We actually encountered another couple, as we returned on the trail. Near the start of the return drive, we temporarily veered off the main road, but a deep gully prevented us from straying too far, and we managed to correct and rejoined the main two-track. When we reached the stream crossing, a reindeer was staring at us from the opposite bank. I jumped out of the car to make a video of the creek crossing, and the reindeer ambled away unconcerned. Amy selected a different line on this crossing and once again mastered it.

Boneyard

From Hoffellsjokull we reversed direction and passed through Hofn and continued a short distance to Vestrahorn. Amy and Jane enjoyed Viking waffles at the lodge, and I downed a ham panini. Afterward we paid our 3000 IKR and drove the short road to a parking lot and completed a one mile round trip hike to the Viking village and farm. The site was pretty lame except for some thatched roof buildings and a Viking ship replica.

Churning Surf

Our next stop was a second parking lot near the shoreline. We were seeking a black beach with grassy tussocks, but instead we got drenched in a soaking rain before reaching a lighthouse and decommissioned NATO radar station. The wind was blowing the rain sideways, and the severe test of my old tan Columbia raincoat taught me that it was not a viable outer layer for fishing.

A Falls on the Way to Egilstaoir

The next segment of our drive was a two hour journey along the fjord country of eastern Iceland. Route 1 hugged the shoreline and provided classic views of the Icelandic coast. When we reached the western edge of the deepest fjord, we veered on to a gravel road that climbed in a steep ascent through dense fog. This bit of dicey driving was unexpected, but as usual Amy mastered it. From the high point on the pass we descended along a high gradient stream and eventually arrived in Egilstaoir and found our hotel, Lake Hotel Egilsstaoir. We debated going to the Vok floating baths, but decided to forego this option for dinner at the Salt Bistro followed by wine in the lobby of the hotel. Dinner consisted of two vegan pizzas and a maugherita pizza, and we created a large quantity of leftovers.